Backpacking

Leavitt Meadows to Fremont Lake - June 21, 22, 2003
Emigrant Wilderness



by Joe Hu

 

more photos

 
Joe Hu at Roosevelt Lake

  Highway 108 is one of the most gorgeous stretches of road I've ever had the pleasure of speeding on. But at this point, it was a twisting, winding road floating above the vast nothingness of the pitch black night. I whipped around the blind corners completely unsympathetic to my passengers gentle, sensitive equilibriums. Yo followed closely behind also unfazed by the treacherous road. His passengers too were white knuckled as we blasted over Sonora Pass in the dark of midnight. After Sonora Pass, the highway descends steeply until we reach the Leavitt Meadows campgrounds. Finally, after a 4 hour haul from San Jose over the historic pass we found a spot to set up camp. Rauser counted his blessings that we arrived alive, and felt free to criticize my driving attributes. He was adamant that I was driving too fast. I laughed at his insinuation and wrote it off as his own lack of driving skill, or fear as the case may be. I assured him that none of us were in any danger with me behind the wheel. He wrote off my comments as overconfidence.

After setting up our tents in the brisk early morning air, I attemted to reach Ferd by cell phone, who was on his way to meet us. Amazingly, my phone was able to reach him. He wasn't too far behind, and would be arriving at our campsite at 4 a.m. Ferdie never ceases to amaze. I snapped a glow stick and placed it on the campsite marker.

The duraflame we brought provided light, but no heat. We sat around the fire pit at campsite #15 drinking the "2 Buck Chuck" in the cold, talking loudly. Amy turned in almost immediately, Dana soon after and Sudeep soon after that. As we pounded back the wine, Butz drinking Cutty Sark from his new stainless steel flask, we told stupid jokes and insulted each other to our delight. Among our group of friends, insults are not only applauded, but encouraged, and we constantly take full advantage. We inconsiderately laughed and yapped late into the night and just like at Ferd's apartment, one of our neighbor's complained.

"QUIET!" a deep voice yelled out from across the campground. Reluctantly, we made an effort to keep our voices to a whisper. I realized at that moment; this was a damn good crew to be camping with, and as the volume of our ridiculous conversations turned to whispers, our energy began to wane, and soon we were all climbing into our respective tents.

Amy woke early. VERY early. Ferd had arrived an hour after we had hit the sack and was sleeping in the bed of his pickup. He made it! No doubt he would. We woke slowly and we each ate breakfast and began the slow process of packing up. The long drive had depleted all but an eighth of a tank of gas for each of us, and Yo and I needed to get refueled before we did anything else. Our original hiking plan was to drive up Leavitt Lake Road, a road that would take us up to 10,000 feet to Leavitt Lake. We would definitely need gas. Yo and I hopped into our cars and went on a search for fuel. We found it 17 miles away in Walker, California, otherwise known as "B.F.E." As we drove I couldn't believe the incredible beauty of the mountains we were in. Vast ranges of snowcapped mountains, gorgeous, lush green meadows, monstrous rock mountains shot straight up to the sky. I was in awe. Yo and I stopped and snapped a couple shots of the mountains, then continued to rendezvous with our group.


Yo walks along Highway 108.

 

The original plan to drive up Leavitt Lake Road to Leavitt Lake at 10,000 was squashed. A call to Bridgeport Ranger District informed us that the road was totally unpassable due to snow. We had to go on to option B: Hike out of Leavitt Meadows (where we were) and hike to Roosevelt and Lane Lakes a measley 3+ miles out. We had decided that if we were so inclined (we were) we could always extend the day's hiking to the Fremont Lake trailhead at 7.4 miles. We'd play it by ear as ususal.

We moved our cars to the backpacker's parking area and headed to the trailhead. After getting a group shot on the bridge, we begin the hike walking along the Walker River. We flowed beside the river through the sprawling length of Leavitt Meadows. We hiked quickly leaving dust trails behind as we blazed across the meadow toward the mountains. The landscape is reminiscent of the old westerns. Brian and I talked loudly of wagon trains being raided by Indians and Clint Eastwood riding through the river valley killing everything in sight. Everything around us felt "old west." Except for the infrequent rush of passing jets and our high-tech gear, I felt as if transported back in time. The landscape was amazing. As we hiked among the valley with the backdrop of snow spotted mountains, I was convinced I am truly in love with the Sierras.

 


Rauser and Joe

 

The trail ascended and descended very gradually. Brian called the trail up to this point "granny-hiking." Ahead a sliver of blue radiated from behind the trees. As I approached the crisp blueness of Roosevelt Lake shone before me. The spectacle mesmorized me momentarily as I announced over the Talkabouts, "Water!" We decided that we would go ahead and look for a good spot to camp. In our furious hiking pace, Sudeep and Rauser were left behind. Unbeknownst to us in the front of the pack, Sudeep had been experiencing intense dehydration symptoms and was trying to keep up, we informed them over the radio, "We are following around the right side of the lake, and looking for a lunch spot."10-4," he replied.

We passed several really nice occupied campsites, and headed to Lane Lake directly pass Kennedy Lake connected by a small isthmus. We found a nice spot to eat lunch and scout for a possible camp site. Rauser and Sudeep located us soon afterward. Sudeep apologized for hiking slowly and told us about her ill stomach. We ate lunch and tried to relax while we considered our options.

Amy and I went to explore a ridge to our south hopefully we'd see a dope spot. We talked about the short distance of our hike thusfar and Amy expressed her disappointment. She is always eager to push physical limitations and was determined to get a workout today. We decided to push the idea of moving forward and looking for a spot further up the trail. When we got back to our lunch spot, we took a quick vote and the concensus was to keep moving.

We began to ascend. The deep sandy trail made me think of beach hiking. It made me remember how much I hate it. As we hiked up the hill, our feet giving way beneath with each step of soft sand, Brian grumbled about the damn horsepackers and their trail ruining hooves. I agreed with him as dust flew up into my nose and mouth. I passed him and soon the tables were turned. "I love dust in the face." He said sarcastically. I chuckled under my breath, kicking more dust in the air behind me. As we crossed over a short ridge, and view of mountains suddenly appeared in front of me. The trail began descending from here. Amy made an appropriate observation, "The point of no return," as we descended lower into the river valley. We stopped at the Hidden Lake trail intersection to wait for everyone. A group of day hikers appeared. They informed us of the difficult river crossing ahead and suggested using a log to cross the river about a mile further from the Fremont trail junction. Ferd and Brian decided to move ahead of the pack and scout the river crossing. Rauser and I decided to wait for Sudeep and Yo who had been lagging quite far behind us. We radio'd Yo.

"YO! where you at?"

"I'm back here,... but I'm worried about Sudeep... I haven't seen her for a while." He replied. Rauser immediately dropped his pack and headed back on the trail to look for Sudeep. Amy and Dana moved on to meet Ferd and Brian. I waited for Yo to arrive. I waited some more. And I waited more still. Finally I decided to go back and look for them. I was getting bored sitting here on this log. I hiked back and eventually found Yo hiking slowly toward us. He had just talked to two other backpackers with their chocolate lab. They told him that they had seen a girl off the trail a ways back. She looked sick they said. That's not good, I thought to myself. I talked into the radio. "Rauser, let me know when you reach Sudeep." He confirmed.

We headed forward toward the river crossing . The trail skirts along the gorge of the tubulent raging river. Ferd radio'd in saying that they couldn't locate the log crossing, and would opt to get their feet wet. We arrived at the river crossing just as Amy was thigh deep in river. I could hear her agonizing in the river. As I changed into my Chacos to cross, I felt the dread of icy rushing water. This was not going to feel good. Fresh snowy runoff is never fun to wade in. It proved not to be any fun at all. The instant my legs entered the frigid water, the muscles began to tighten. A strange familiar soreness rose from my feet, up my ankles, up into my knees, and continuing to my buttocks, and up my spine. A mere 20 seconds of exposure was truly painful. We grunted across the river, limping up to the other side. Dana, worried about the river crossing with her pack and volunteered Brian to take up the cause. He heroically heaved her pack above his head, and with his own pack on, trudged across the river. He received applause for his noble deed from the women. The fellas called him a sucker and laughed at him. Despite the name calling, Brian proved to be a generous camping teammate.

 
Ferd crosses the river

 
Brian after hauling Dana's pack across the river.


Brian, Yo, Amy, Dana, Ferd, and I had made it to the other side of the river, but Sudeep and Rauser had not appeared yet. We got on the radios. "Rauser? we've just crossed the river, we need to know how you guys are doing?" No reply. We had arrived at our initial destination point. There were several good campsites along here, and we could stay here if they were unable to continue. The other option was to keep hiking up at least 600-700 feet in a mile or two, to Fremont Lake. We all wanted to keep going. We had enough energy, and if we left soon we'd have plenty of time. But with Rauser and Sudeep so far behind, we had to consider that they wouldn't make it. I tried the radio again, "Rauser, what should we do?... we've just crossed the river, do you want us to wait for you here?"

"Dude, I don't know, I have shit to work out over here," He sounded annoyed with my question. Amy suggested that Ferd ask him again, so we'd get a better response. The reasoning being that I tended to get a more negative, less helpful response from Rauser than Ferd would.

"Rauser, so, are you guys going to be able to make it up to Fremont Lake?" Ferd asked into the radio. It worked.

"We'll make it." Rauser replied. Instantly we all threw our packs on and began the steep climb to Fremont Lake. The climb was tedious. It switched back and forth uphill. Ferd and Lutz took the lead passing the two hikers with the lab. We panted upward until finally the climbing stopped, and the trail flattened out. Ah! we've reached the top, I assumed. I was wrong. We started climbing again, and after a bit more climbing, Ferd's voice said over the radio, "I see the lake,... beautiful!" I felt myself get excited, and my pace quickened. Finally we began a descent and from between the trees, a lake came into view. It was quite spectacular. A pristine lake glistened before us. Amy and I hugged each other and gathered in the beauty of the scenery. Fremont Lake was more beautiful than I had imagined, and it was well worth the climb. We followed the trail around the left side and eventually found Brian and Ferd setting down their packs at a very nice campsite. At last! We gave each other Hi-5's and began the process of setting up camp. I took some time to photograph the area. I was ecstatic. >>>>>

 
Fremont Lake at dusk

 
Roosevelt Lake


Fremont Lake


more photos

 
The before pic

 
Amy at the Point of No Return

 
Rauser

 
Yo hikes among wildflowers on the Walker River Trail

  
Brian and Ferd at a trail sign.

<<<<< Yo arrived soon afterward, and after an hour or so, Rauser's voice came on over the radio. "Hey, we are approaching the Lake, which way do we go?" He asked. We told him, and soon he and Sudeep walked up to camp. Finally, our crew was united.

Dinner for me consisted of a Hillshire Farms Beef Smoked Sausage, and a package of Mountain House Spaghetti with Meat Sauce (a camp favorite.) The sausage was a definite crowdpleaser. It's greasy, salty goodness elevate my mood even more and reinforced the notion that food just plain tastes better in the mountains. "Cocktails !!" someone hollered. What a great idea I thought to myself. Ferd produced one cold can of Bud Light and shared it with us. We were bitter and happy all at once. Bitter because he didn't pack one for each of us, and happy because he gave us each drinks from his. It was a refreshing sip indeed. Again reinforcing the notion that drink tastes better in the mountains as well.

 


Rauser and Lutz headlamp-it.

 

As the day turned to dusk, we lit the fire saving a small duraflame for when it really got dark. The cocktails were flowing, and eventually carefully mixed cocktails turned into straight vodka drinking, and soon most of us were sporting mellow buzzes. As the night faded away, we slept the sleep of the just (as Dana would say.) I think after today, we all earned the title of being "just." We had done more than twice as much distance as we had planned, and then we hiked even more. We were victorious.

The morning came quickly, and my watch read 7 a.m. as I rose gingerly from the tent. I set off to try and make some good morning photos. The lake looked incredible. The weather was perfect. Soon the camp was rousing and we began the morning ritual of cooking, brushing, cleaning, and then packing. I prepared a lunch of rice, lentils, and Cheesewurst (cheese filled sausages) and bagged it into ziplocks and stuffed it into my bear canister. Everyone else took care of their own morning duties (coffee and what not.)

We all packed up fairly quickly and were on the trail before we knew it. Today started off quite different with Rauser and Sudeep blazing ahead and leaving everyone else in the dust. Once we descended down to the river, we attempted to find the log river crossing so we wouldn't have to endure the pain of icy water again. We couldn't find it and ended up crossing further upstream. After fumbling around looking for a trail back to where we needed to be, we finally got our bearings together and headed to the meeting point. We rendezvous there and put our shoes back on.


We move aside for the horse caravan

 

The hike from here on out was blistering. We hiked very fast with Amy setting a pace that can only be described as relentless. We hiked beside the rushing river, let a caravan of pack horses ride by, and continued forward breathing the dust of soft sand. We ascended past the Point of No Return and caught a gorgeous view of the valley ahead of us. The trail seemed extra soft today, and although the trail ultimately descended, we had to battle several somewhat short, but steep climbs. Amy was impressive, climbing without rest. Finally, we reached Lane Lake, and decided to take a lunch break at a nice spot just around at Kennedy Lake. As we ate the prepared lunch, Brian lay on his back flattened out on a rock, clearly taking advantage of the sun, and finally a bit of rest.

Lunch lasted about 20 minutes, and before my lunch could digest, we were packed up and headed out on the trail once again. After a quick stop at Kennedy Lake to take in the last view of the water, we climbed up and back down into the Leavitt Meadow Valley. From here the pace quicked even more. With Amy's increasingly quickening pace, I struggled to keep up, knees creaking like rusty iron hinges. And in a short amount of time, we were approaching the bridge from which we started. Amy waited for me there with a hug and some words of encouragement. "We made it."

Ferd had a beer filled cooler in his truck. Having the icy beverage in my hand might as well have been the Stanley Cup; I was elated to be drinking from it. We lounged at the parking lot cleaning up a bit from the faucet. Soon we all piled into our car and started the drive home. While driving out of the Emigrant Wilderness I realized what we had missed the night we drove in. I was hypnotized by what surrounded us. As Amy drove, I stared drop jawed out the window. It was an incredibly humbing experience driving among the massive rock structures surrounding Sonora Pass. I made a promise to come back soon.

 
Joe and Amy at Roosevelt Lake - photo by Yo.

 
Amy grins on the trail

 
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